Replace Asphalt Shingle Roof

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Replace Asphalt Shingle Roof –Of course. Replacing an asphalt shingle roof is a significant home improvement project. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from recognizing when you need a new roof to choosing materials and hiring a contractor.

Do You Need a New Roof?

First, confirm that a full replacement is necessary. Look for these signs:

  • Age: Most asphalt shingle roofs last 20-25 years. If your roof is approaching or has passed this age, replacement is likely due.

  • Curling or Buckling Shingles: Shingles that are curling at the edges or buckling in the center are at the end of their life.

  • Missing Shingles: Frequent loss of shingles, especially after storms, indicates general failure.

  • Granule Loss: Finding a lot of granules (which look like coarse black sand) in your gutters or downspouts means the shingles’ protective coating is wearing off.

  • Visible Daylight or Sagging: If you can see light through your roof boards from the attic, or if the roof deck is sagging, this is a critical issue requiring immediate replacement.

  • Leaks in the Attic: Water stains on attic sheathing or insulation are a clear sign of failure.

The Step-by-Step Replacement Process

Step 1: Planning and Getting Quotes

  • Get Multiple Quotes: Always get at least 3 detailed, written quotes from reputable, licensed, and insured contractors.

  • Ask the Right Questions:

    • Are you licensed and insured (both liability and workers’ comp)?

    • Will you obtain the permit? (They usually should.)

    • What is the project timeline and estimated completion date?

    • What is your process for protecting my property (gutters, landscaping) and cleaning up?

    • Do you include a warranty? What does it cover (materials AND labor)?

  • Review the Quote: It should include a detailed list of materials (shingle brand/type, underlayment type, drip edge, ice & water shield, ventilation), labor costs, disposal fees, and the total cost.

Step 2: Choosing Your Materials

This is where you make key decisions that affect cost, longevity, and curb appeal.

  • Shingle Type:

    • 3-Tab Shingles: The most affordable and basic option. Flat, uniform look. Lifespan: 15-20 years.

    • Architectural (Dimensional) Shingles: The most popular choice. Thicker, multi-dimensional, and more aesthetically pleasing. Better wind resistance and lifespan: 25-30 years.

    • Premium/Luxury Shingles: Designed to mimic slate or wood shake. Highest cost, but offer the best durability, curb appeal, and longest lifespan (40+ years).

  • Underlayment: This is the water-resistant barrier nailed to the roof deck.

    • #15 or #30 Felt: Traditional, budget-friendly option.

    • Synthetic Underlayment: More popular now. Lighter, stronger, more water-resistant, and less prone to wrinkling.

  • Ice & Water Shield: A self-adhering, rubberized membrane required by code in cold climates for the eaves (first 3-6 feet) and in valleys. It’s a critical layer of protection against ice dams.

  • Ventilation: Proper ventilation is crucial for roof longevity. It prevents heat and moisture buildup that can damage shingles and decking. Ensure your contractor includes a balanced system of intake vents (soffit vents) and exhaust vents (ridge vents are best).

Step 3: The Tear-Off and Installation Day(s)

A professional crew will typically complete the job in 1-3 days.

  1. Preparation: The crew will lay down tarps, move vehicles, and protect landscaping. They’ll set up ladders and safety equipment.

  2. Tear-Off: The old shingles and underlayment are ripped off and thrown into a dumpster. This is the noisiest and messiest part.

  3. Inspection: Once bare, the roof deck (sheathing) is inspected for rot or damage. Any soft or rotten wood must be replaced.

  4. Underlayment: The new synthetic or felt underlayment is rolled out and nailed down.

  5. Flashing: New metal flashing is installed in critical areas like valleys, around chimneys, vents, and walls to direct water away.

  6. Drip Edge: Metal drip edge is installed along the eaves and rakes to protect the underlying wood.

  7. Shingle Installation: Starting from the bottom edge (eaves), the new shingles are nailed in place according to the manufacturer’s specifications.

  8. Ridge Vent & Caps: The peak of the roof is finished with a ridge vent and covered with pre-formed ridge cap shingles.

  9. Clean-Up: The crew will use magnets to pick up nails and thoroughly clean the yard and driveway. The dumpster is hauled away.

Cost Considerations

Costs vary widely by region, roof size, pitch, and material choice. As of 2024:

  • Average National Cost: $8,500 – $16,000

  • Per Square (100 sq. ft.) Cost: $350 – $1,200+

    • *3-Tab Shingles:* $350 – $550 per square

    • Architectural Shingles: $450 – $800 per square

    • Premium Shingles: $700 – $1,200+ per square

What impacts cost?

  • Roof Size and Pitch: Steeper, larger roofs cost more.

  • Number of Layers: Removing multiple old layers adds labor.

  • Complexity: Many valleys, dormers, skylights, or chimneys increase time and cost.

  • Access: Difficult-to-access homes may have higher costs.

Warranties: Know the Difference

  • Manufacturer’s Warranty: Covers defects in the shingles themselves. It can range from 25-year “limited” warranties to 50-year “lifetime” transferable warranties. Architectural shingles almost always come with a better warranty.

  • Workmanship Warranty: Provided by the contractor, this covers installation errors (e.g., leaks from poor nail placement). A 5-10 year workmanship warranty is standard for a reputable roofer.

Pro Tip: For the manufacturer’s warranty to be valid, the installation must follow their exact specifications. Use a contractor who is “certified” or “preferred” by the shingle manufacturer.

Final Checklist Before You Start

  • I have received and compared at least 3 detailed, written quotes.

  • I have verified the contractor’s license and insurance.

  • I understand the materials being used (shingle type, underlayment, ventilation).

  • I have a clear, written contract outlining the scope, timeline, payment schedule, and warranty details.

  • I have a plan for my pets and family during the noisy workdays.

  • I have moved valuable items from the attic and walls to protect them from vibration.

Replacing your roof is an investment in your home’s protection and value. Taking the time to do it right with the right materials and the right contractor will give you peace of mind for decades to come.

Going Deeper on Shingle Selection and Aesthetics

Choosing your shingle involves more than just durability. It’s a major factor in your home’s curb appeal.

  • Color and Blend: Modern architectural shingles often use multiple colors in a single shingle to create depth and shadow lines.

    • Consider Your Home’s Exterior: Choose a color that complements your siding, brick, or stone. Lighter shades can help reflect heat in sunny climates.

    • Algae Resistance: In humid climates, look for shingles with copper granules or Algae Block® technology (often denoted by a “3” on the shingle wrapper). This prevents unsightly black streaks.

  • Wind Resistance: This is a critical performance metric.

    • Standard Wind Rating: Most architectural shingles are rated for 130 mph winds (ASTM D7158, Class F).

    • Enhanced Wind Rating: Some premium lines are rated for 150+ mph (Class H) or even 180 mph. This is achieved through stronger seals and installation methods. If you live in a high-wind area, this is worth the investment.

  • Impact Resistance: For areas prone to hail.

    • Shingles are rated by the UL 2218 standard. A Class 4 rating is the highest, meaning the shingle can withstand a 2-inch steel ball being dropped on it without damage. These shingles often have a thicker, more rubberized base and can lead to discounts on your homeowner’s insurance.

The Contractor Vetting Process (In Detail)

Don’t skip this step. A great roof with a poor installation will fail.

  1. Check Credentials: Ask for their state license number and insurance certificate. Call the insurance provider to confirm it’s active.

  2. Look for Local Longevity: A company that has been in business locally for 10+ years is more likely to be around to honor their workmanship warranty.

  3. Read Reviews: Check Google, BBB, and local review sites. Look for patterns in feedback—both positive and negative.

  4. Ask for Local References: A confident contractor will provide addresses of recent jobs you can drive by, or even customer contacts.

  5. Beware of Storm Chasers: After a major hail storm, out-of-town contractors swarm the area. They often offer low prices but provide poor workmanship and vanish when you have a problem. Always choose a local, established roofer.

 Understanding the Contract and Payment Schedule

A professional contract protects you and the contractor.

Your contract should clearly state:

  • Complete Scope of Work: A detailed “materials list” is not enough. It should specify the work to be done, e.g., “Replace all roof sheathing that exhibits rot.”

  • Project Timeline: Start date and estimated completion date.

  • Total Price: The final, all-in cost.

  • Payment Schedule: This is crucial.

    • Red Flag: A demand for full payment upfront.

    • Standard Schedule: A deposit (often 10-30%) to secure the job and schedule materials, followed by progress payments, with a final payment (30-50%) due only after the work is completed to your satisfaction and a final inspection has passed.

  • Clean-Up and Disposal: Explicitly state that the site will be broom-cleaned and all debris removed.

  • Warranty Documents: Specify that you will receive both the manufacturer’s warranty (to be mailed in) and the contractor’s workmanship warranty.

During and After the Installation

What to Expect During the Project:

  • Noise and Vibration: It will be loud. It’s a construction site on your roof.

  • Dust and Debris: Despite tarps, some dust will find its way inside. Cover sensitive items in your attic and home.

  • Supervision: The foreman should be on-site at all times. You don’t need to hover, but don’t be afraid to ask questions.

The Final Walk-Through and Inspection:

  1. Visual Inspection from the Ground: Look for uneven lines, missing shingles, or visible patches.

  2. Check the Gutters and Yard: Ensure they have been thoroughly cleaned of nails and debris. Use a magnet roller yourself for a final check to protect your tires and pets.

  3. Ask for an Invoice and Lien Waiver: The final invoice proves you paid. A lien waiver is a legal document from the contractor stating they have been paid in full and waive the right to place a lien on your home. This is critical if they used sub-contractors or didn’t pay their material supplier.

  4. Schedule the Final Inspection: If your contractor pulled the permit, they are responsible for scheduling the municipal inspector to close out the permit. You should receive a copy of the passed inspection report.

  5. File Your Warranty: Complete and mail (or submit online) the manufacturer’s warranty registration card. Your contractor should provide this.

DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

While it’s possible for a highly skilled DIYer to roof a small shed, a full house roof replacement is not a recommended DIY project.

Why you should hire a pro:

  • Safety: Roof work is extremely dangerous. Falls are a leading cause of death in construction.

  • Speed and Efficiency: A professional crew can do in days what would take you weeks.

  • Warranty: A DIY installation voids the manufacturer’s warranty. You also have no workmanship warranty.

  • Quality and Code Compliance: Professionals know the exact nailing patterns, flashing details, and ventilation requirements to ensure the roof lasts and meets building codes.

Replacing your asphalt shingle roof is a major undertaking, but by being an informed homeowner, you can navigate the process confidently. The key takeaways are: vet your contractor thoroughly, understand your material choices, and never base your decision on price alone. A quality roof is a long-term investment that protects everything beneath it.